Post Seven - Bermuda and Funchal

(Scott's Comment) There is nothing quite like the look of the ocean once you are out to sea. It takes on a bright blue color that seems fake. Also the air smells different. It's hard to explain. You only notice it when you come close to land again and the smell changes. People who have spent a lot of time at sea will know what I mean. Although this trip was quite different than any oceanography cruise I took part in, it was fun to finally share the experience of being on the open ocean with Karen.

We'd made it three days, and the ship was still afloat. I have a serious fear of deep water, and I was ecstatic and relieved to dock in Bermuda. "OK, I can do this," I thought.

Bermuda combines British order and ostentatious wealth against a lush, semi-tropical palate. As an offshore banking center, the nation attracts professionals from all over the world. Its seclusion, beauty, and mild climate make it attractive for the rich and famous looking for privacy. The native people have watched their land values soar to the point where many don't even live there anymore; they rent out their homes for $10,000 or more a month and live on the mainland off the income.

People onboard looked surprised when we told them we were going to visit friends in Bermuda. With just 56,000 residents on the island, you're more likely to know someone from Kalamazoo than Bermuda. Hmm. Maybe that's a bad example. But I can't think of a better one right now.

Jan and Walter Mercer showed us around, including their house overlooking a bay. We laughed when they told us this gorgeous, deserted stretch of white sand in the picture was their local beach.

It was nice to be tucked up safely against a dock. But that made it all the more thrilling when they pulled back these ropes and the ship moved away from the dock. At this point, we were in for five days on the open ocean.

The island, also known as Madeira, is a Portuguese possession that lies off the coast of Africa. I was always glad to spot land. At this point, we were technically in Europe.

Scott and I were both amazed and a bit mortified each time we looked toward the harbor and saw the Millenium dominating the view. It was so massive. And it's an incredible piece of modern engineering. I can see why some locals have a love-hate feeling about cruise ships. In a way, though, cruise-ship tourists are the best kind. They stop in for a couple of hours, shop and eat in restaurants, and then get back on the ship and leave.

With just a few hours in port, we didn't have much time to see things. We tasted Madeira wine (sweet like sherry) at Blandy's, a British Madeira house, and walked the backstreets.

Sometimes, the ports were more romantic perched on a teak railing, watching the sun go down.